Review UNIQATO Rubin, Jancis Robinson

UNIQATO RUBIN

Jancis Robinson's comment and review

"The chatter about alternative varieties grows increasingly clamorous these days as wine lovers sniff out ever more obscure grape varieties. And few are more alternative and obscure than Rubin, a 1944 cross of Nebbiolo and Syrah from Bulgaria.

I was struck by how this Uniqato from Damianitza managed to meld some of the best qualities of its parent grapes, showing the firm structure of Nebbiolo with the savoury, meaty flavour of Syrah and an aromatic floral quality common to both. While not unfamiliar by themselves, the combination makes for a most unusual experience, with an additional rubbery sort of texture that is very particular.

I loved it for its individuality and esotericism, which may be too oddball to appeal to mainstream wine drinkers, but which I fancy will really pique the curiosity of the wine savvy. Furthermore, it is showing attractive, mature complexity, helped in part by 10 months' ageing in 50% new French oak."

Source: www.jancisrobinson.com

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